niedziela, 31 sierpnia 2014

 Nanga Parbat Winter 2014/15



Please support the Tomek Mackiewicz - Nanga Parbat project.Tomek hopes to finally complete the ascent of one of only two 8,000m peaks still not as yet successfully climbed in winter (Nanga Parbat / Naked Mountain, also called ‘Diamar’ – the Royal Mountain and K2 remain the only pristine winter summits). The mad-cap idea to ascend Nanga was conceived in 2010 by the pair of eccentrics, Marek Klonowski and Tomek Mackiewicz.
With each passing year the scale of the project has increased, becoming a major project and healthy obsession, stoked by Tomek's stubbornness. During the 2012/2013 expedition Tomek reached 7,400m, the highest that anyone has reached in 16 years (in 1997 Zbigniew Trzmiel / Krzysztof Pankiewicz team, Trzmiel reached a height of 7,800m. This expedition was led by Andrzej Zawada going from the Diamir valley, through the Kingshofer pass).
The few nights spent alone at an altitude of over 7,000m, in a snow cave, attracted interest, attention and appreciation from the Polish and global climbing community. Tomek has shown that he and the mountains go together. They understand and respect each other and Tomek's presence on Nanga Parbat is no accident. For him and some of the supporters of the expedition, it makes perfect sense. This project shouts for completion. Tomek wants to successfully end several years of trying to achieve his goal and to free his mind from the vision of the summit of Nanga Parbat and prove, both to himself and the world, that it is worth persevering in the pursuit of a goal. This goal is real and imminent. Wanda Rutkiewicz said "the value of the climb is determined not only by whether your reach the top, but how you climbed", and Tomek wants to achieve his goal with these words in mind. Climbing to the top of Nanga is not about conquering or taming the mountain. It is about being face to face with a perfect beauty and becoming a force 1,000 times more powerful than yourself. Above all it is about overcoming your own weaknesses.
Last year's collection on PolakPotrafi.pl (Polish crowdfunding service) received a very enthusiastic response. We managed to collect 50,000zł (€12,500) for the expedition, a fourth attempt to ascend Nanga, consisting of Marek Klonowski, Jacek Teler, Michał Obrycki, Michał Dzikowski, Paweł Dunaj. The team collaborated with Simone Moro's Italian expedition taking the Shell route. Tomek and David Goettler reached an altitude of 7,200m.
By supporting us financially, donators have also shown that they too believe in the idea that a person, not a system, nor various official bodies and organisations, has the right to realise their own goals and self assess their potential and overcome their own weaknesses. In the words of Marek Klonowski "the collections showed that people yearn for freedom”; freedom, understood as the right to choose their own path, which does not require a permit or acceptance from any system.
There have been many attempts to try and ascend Nanga Parbat in winter. Here are Tomek Mackiewicz and Marek Klonowskiego expeditions:
1) 2010/2011 expedition from the Diamir face. Tomek and Marek. Reached an altitude of 5100
2) 2011/2012 expedition from the Diamir face. Attempt of the classic Kingshofer route (collaboration with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, using a different Diamir route). Reached an altitude of 5500
3) 2012/2013 expedition from the Rupal Face by the Shell route - Tomek reached a solo altitude of 7,400m
4) 2013/2014 Shell route, team composed of Tomek Mackiewicz, Marek Klonowski, Jacek Teler, Paweł Dunaj, Michał Dzikowski and Michał Obrycki. Cooperation with the expeditions of Simone Moro and David Goettler, reached an altitude of 7,200 m). Marek Klonowski and Michał Dzikowski left the expedition after a couple of weeks. Paweł Dunaj and Michał Obrycki were caught in an avalanche at the end of the expedition. They were seriously injured, but thankfully both of them survived the accident.
Tomek will undertake the 5th expedition alone and is planning to take the Messner route from the Diamir face. He will hook up with Daniel Nardi, Elisabeth Revol Simone Moro also hopes to make an ascent, possibly by the Messner route as well.
After many struggles and several years of joint and team expeditions, Tomek decided to go to Nanga alone this time, wanting to be able to focus more and complete his plan his own way. Tomek: "I am most effective climbing on my own, taking my own route and going at my own rhythm. My attention isn't distracted, I'm focused on specific actions and following my plan. I don't think that this is selfishness, but something that allows a deeper responsibility and belief that controlling my own mind and intuition, undistracted by other human energy, and charged by nature and from the rock itself, I can be closer to reaching my goal. I also know myself well enough to know that I am most effective acting autonomously. This is how I am. I know what my motivation and own way is. I believe that the summit of Nanga can be reached in winter." As Wanda Rutkiewicz said again, "I got used to it, to be alone in difficult situations." Paradoxically, when man is capable of superhuman deeds, when responsibility is not dispersed, you can decide on your own about your next steps. "Then I know that everything depends only on me, on my mental state, my stamina and concentration. Facing your weaknesses, when you are part of nature surrounding you, is fascinating and very different to when you are part of a group." (WR)
This year's collection motto comes from Simone Moro (in an interview for offsport.pl): "We go to the mountains to feel alive." For Tomek, these words, literally and figuratively, define his motivation.
With each passing year the scale of the project has increased, becoming a major project and healthy obsession, stoked by Tomek's stubbornness. During the 2012/2013 expedition Tomek reached 7,400m, the highest that anyone has reached in 16 years (in 1997 Zbigniew Trzmiel / Krzysztof Pankiewicz team, Trzmiel reached a height of 7,800m. This expedition was led by Andrzej Zawada going from the Diamir valley, through the Kingshofer pass).The few nights spent alone at an altitude of over 7,000m, in a snow cave, attracted interest, attention and appreciation from the Polish and global climbing community. Tomek has shown that he and the mountains go together. They understand and respect each other and Tomek's presence on Nanga Parbat is no accident. For him and some of the supporters of the expedition, it makes perfect sense. This project shouts for completion. Tomek wants to successfully end several years of trying to achieve his goal and to free his mind from the vision of the summit of Nanga Parbat and prove, both to himself and the world, that it is worth persevering in the pursuit of a goal. This goal is real and imminent. Wanda Rutkiewicz said "the value of the climb is determined not only by whether your reach the top, but how you climbed", and Tomek wants to achieve his goal with these words in mind. Climbing to the top of Nanga is not about conquering or taming the mountain. It is about being face to face with a perfect beauty and becoming a force 1,000 times more powerful than yourself. Above all it is about overcoming your own weaknesses.Last year's collection on PolakPotrafi.pl (Polish crowdfunding service) received a very enthusiastic response. We managed to collect 50,000zł (€12,500) for the expedition, a fourth attempt to ascend Nanga, consisting of Marek Klonowski, Jacek Teler, Michał Obrycki, Michał Dzikowski, Paweł Dunaj. The team collaborated with Simone Moro's Italian expedition taking the Shell route. Tomek and David Goettler reached an altitude of 7,200m.By supporting us financially, donators have also shown that they too believe in the idea that a person, not a system, nor various official bodies and organisations, has the right to realise their own goals and self assess their potential and overcome their own weaknesses. In the words of Marek Klonowski "the collections showed that people yearn for freedom”; freedom, understood as the right to choose their own path, which does not require a permit or acceptance from any system.There have been many attempts to try and ascend Nanga Parbat in winter. Here are Tomek Mackiewicz and Marek Klonowskiego expeditions:1) 2010/2011 expedition from the Diamir face. Tomek and Marek. Reached an altitude of 51002) 2011/2012 expedition from the Diamir face. Attempt of the classic Kingshofer route (collaboration with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, using a different Diamir route). Reached an altitude of 55003) 2012/2013 expedition from the Rupal Face by the Shell route - Tomek reached a solo altitude of 7,400m4) 2013/2014 Shell route, team composed of Tomek Mackiewicz, Marek Klonowski, Jacek Teler, Paweł Dunaj, Michał Dzikowski and Michał Obrycki. Cooperation with the expeditions of Simone Moro and David Goettler, reached an altitude of 7,200 m). Marek Klonowski and Michał Dzikowski left the expedition after a couple of weeks. Paweł Dunaj and Michał Obrycki were caught in an avalanche at the end of the expedition. They were seriously injured, but thankfully both of them survived the accident.Tomek will undertake the 5th expedition alone and is planning to take the Messner route from the Diamir face. He will hook up with Daniel Nardi, Elisabeth Revol Simone Moro also hopes to make an ascent, possibly by the Messner route as well.After many struggles and several years of joint and team expeditions, Tomek decided to go to Nanga alone this time, wanting to be able to focus more and complete his plan his own way. Tomek: "I am most effective climbing on my own, taking my own route and going at my own rhythm. My attention isn't distracted, I'm focused on specific actions and following my plan. I don't think that this is selfishness, but something that allows a deeper responsibility and belief that controlling my own mind and intuition, undistracted by other human energy, and charged by nature and from the rock itself, I can be closer to reaching my goal. I also know myself well enough to know that I am most effective acting autonomously. This is how I am. I know what my motivation and own way is. I believe that the summit of Nanga can be reached in winter." As Wanda Rutkiewicz said again, "I got used to it, to be alone in difficult situations." Paradoxically, when man is capable of superhuman deeds, when responsibility is not dispersed, you can decide on your own about your next steps. "Then I know that everything depends only on me, on my mental state, my stamina and concentration. Facing your weaknesses, when you are part of nature surrounding you, is fascinating and very different to when you are part of a group." (WR)This year's collection motto comes from Simone Moro (in an interview for offsport.pl): "We go to the mountains to feel alive." For Tomek, these words, literally and figuratively, define his motivation.



piątek, 22 sierpnia 2014

Przygotowania


Rozpoczęły sie przygotowania do wyjazdu na Nange. Wszystkim zainteresowanym dziękuję za wsparcie wyprawy. Tomek 
Portal Górski został oficjalnym organizatorem zimowej wyprawy na Nanga Parbat 14/15 której uczestnikiem jest Tomek Czapa Mackiewicz.
Portal Górski organizatorem zimowej wyprawy Nanga Parbat 14/15
Portal Górski organizatorem zimowej wyprawy Nanga Parbat 14/15
Tomek w tym roku zdecydował się na ścianę Diamir. Pod ścianą pojawi się również Danielle Nardi który dwukrotnie już zmagał się z Nangą, wyprawy Portalu górskiego, oraz Daniela Nardi zamierzają działać razem, co już się dzieje na poziomie organizacyjnym. O dalszych planach i postępach będziemy informować na bieżąco.
Tomek "Czapa" Mackiewicz
Tomek "Czapa" Mackiewicz
Wiemy też że na Diamirze pojawi się również Simone Moro.

Sponsorzy sprzętowi:

Cousin Trestec
Kayland

Organiator wyprawy:


Portal Górski

środa, 13 sierpnia 2014


WKRÓTCE PREMIERA :-)